The Great Fire and Brick City

A small brick two story home

The Fire of St. Louis

Ever wonder why St. Louis is called Brick City? Read on, and find out.

Every great city has had a “great fire” in the 1800’s, and St. Louis is no exception. However, the Chicago fire in October 1871, began in a barn outside of the city and killed 300 people, lasting about 24 hours.

London

London’s great fire, during King Charles II’s reign, in 1666, started in a bakery when a spark from an oven lit the fuel in the kitchen. This truly was a great fire as it lasted 4 days and happened during a plague. Almost 13,000 of the mostly wood buildings and churches were leveled. The best part is only 6 people died during this fire, although some died jumping from windows.

San Francisco

Even the San Francisco fire, burning not only City Hall and killing nearly 3000 people, was started after an earthquake. It lasted three days and burned about 500 blocks. The photos are devastating. You can find more pictures and information here.

More than one

St. Louis has the distinction of having two ‘great fires’ and the first did not start on land, no, the first one started on the Mississippi River in 1849.

The quiet evening in May started as any other. Ships moving in and out of the busy port city to and from destinations all along the might river. Volunteer fireman, Captain Thomas Targee was at home settling in with his family, when word spread of a mattress on fire on the levee.

The steamboat White Cloud was moored at Cherry Street on the landing, when a mattress caught fire. The men on board tossed the mattress overboard while it was still smoking. It hit the large ropes holding the ship in place. The mooring ropes caught fire and quickly set the White Cloud a blaze. The White Cloud had then broke free and was setting adrift down the river. Eventually 22 more boats and barges were lit as well.

Captain Targee had alerted the volunteer firemen and had 9 hand cars and hose reel wagons enroute.

The flames were leaping high into the night sky and leaping onto the nearby wooden structures on the waterfront. Soon four blocks of buildings were engulfed. Main Street, Olive, 2nd and Market. 3 blocks away, a copper shop was burning down.

In defensive actions, 6 buildings were blown up to prevent further damage and stop the spread. The last of the six to be strategically used as a fire break, was the Philips Music Store.

Loss of life

It was during this last blast that Captain Targee lost his life. Thus giving the St. Louis Fire department the distinction of being the first city to have a firefighter lose his life during a fire. In the aftermath, boats and nearly buildings burned. Alarms were used to warn people and surprisingly only 3 people lost their lives.

an 1840’s early daguerreotype

New Codes

Building codes in the city were quickly put in place requiring new structures to be made of stone or brick. Multiple brick manufacturing companies sprang up throughout the city.

Most buildings and homes in the city of St. Louis are now made of bricks.

The St. Louis Fire Department is the second oldest paid department in the United States. It began in 1822 as a volunteer fire department and became a paid dept. in 1857.

Second large fire St. Louis 1976

127 years later, a fire broke out or was set, on automotive row on Locust Street in an abandoned building. It spread so quickly six surrounding buildings and a fire pump truck was destroyed. In all 200 firefighters and 51 trucks were called on the scene and 8 people were injured.

Blazing between buildings 1976

It was later determined scrap metal thieves were the cause of the igniting.

This area looked so bad that it was used as a backdrop for the movie Escape From New York with Kurt Russell in 1981. It remained seedy and run down for several years.

Several local engine companies worked together
Melted pump truck
Today, this area and buildings have been restored. Very few abandoned.
Filmed in St. Louis, Mo in the former Automotive row, now on the National Register of Historic Places

I may do another blog on the locations used for this 1981 film. I guess I should watch it first.

What areas of history or St. Louis do you want to learn about next? Leave a comment, like and share.

Hidden In Plain Site

History all around us Part 3

Look up, down, all around you will see almost hidden in plain site, the history represented in signs. Ghost signs left from an old business, or advertisement of a once popular product or service. They are everywhere, in every city, even on old barns along the highways.

Here are some from around the mid-west, St. Louis, Missouri area and the stories and history behind them.

a sign in terra cotta above an entrance to an old brick building
Sign above the entrance to a building that has been repurposed, St. Louis, MO

This sign is for The Endicott-Johnson Shoe Company. This building was built in 1923 to expand upon the smaller two story existing building when the E-J shoe company moved in and started using the location for a warehouse/distribution center and sales showroom. The company came to the St. Louis area in 1907 to compete with the very successful area shoe manufactures, but moved to this location in 1924 after construction. The company began in 1854 as Lester Brothers Boot and Shoe Co. then becoming Endicott-Johnson in 1899 in New York.

The smaller building to the left was built for the Columbia Transfer Company in 1915 due to its proximity to the rail yards. It was only used until 1923, when the shoe co. moved in.

The EJ on top of the building at Spruce and Tucker in St. Louis, MO

Not always hidden

Some ghost signs are very visible, like the one above and they aren’t always faded painted signs. Often you will see more of these type left on older buildings then the painted kind that new owners paint over or remove for their own names.

An advertisement for the Endicott-Johnson Shoe Company.
The original 2 story building.
Many building did not survive the highway 40 expansion in the downtown area.

The past is visible everywhere.

This sign is in Lafayette Park in St. Louis, Mo for Eden (now lofts) is still visible along Chouteau Ave. Built in 1896 for Eden Publishing House but not long after, the great tornado of 1896 hit part of the building. After repairs, it then changed and was added on until 1929 when a 5 story addition was added to house a store, and offices. Eden Publishing ceased in 1978. The art deco signs are all still intact.

The art deco style is evident in the sign and entrance of the now Eden Loft/condos.
Sign says “Publishing Eden House”
This ghost signs says “Evangelical Synod”

Kodak ~a mini history of its connection to St. Louis

Eastman Kodak Company building, built in 1928 in the new modern/ art deco style. The entire block of Olive street is on the National Register of Historic Places and most of this low rise style. 100 stores were going to be built for Kodak, but due to the great depression only 5 were completed. The building was used a fur company before being renovated about 30 years ago, where the cameras seen in the store front were found.

Original sign inlaid at entrance of what once was the Kodak store.
Cameras found during renovation sit inside the
storefront window displays, also note the EKC on top of the awning.

The Thaxton Speakeasy and Event space is now occupying the building and kept the fabulous art deco style throughout. Where once was a Kodak sign, now hangs a Thaxton sign.

Art Deco styled Thaxton sign
A Kodak sign hangs in front of the store
The building as a fur store before renos
The Kodak store of the Eastman Kodak Building
Olive Street looking west in the early 1900’s

Well Hidden in Plain Sight

In an old historic neighborhood in St. Louis, MO called Lafayette Square, is this ghost sign on the side of a private home. The home is across the street from one of the oldest parks in the city. Next to this house is two new homes built in 2015 in very much the style of the older homes on the street (the lot where the 2 houses are was once the Lafayette Park Hotel). The sign is hardly visible if you are busy driving by.

A closer view of the ghost sign
Newer home to the left, original homes, built in 1986, to the right.

The sign is for Crystal Domino Granulated Sugar. Domino Sugar was a company located in New York. The house with the sign was damaged in the “Great Cyclone of 1896”. Post coming soon on this devastating disaster.

1912 history of the company
Ad for Domino Sugar

Here’s a few more images from the inside, and the back alley to the Thaxton Speakeasy (secret password needed for entry)!

Hidden entrance
Back alley entrance to the speakeasy

There as so many signs still visible if you really look and see what is right in front of you! Do you have any favorites? Leave a comment and let me know! I have many more for future posts. A blog about how St. Louis was once the Shoe capital of the nation coming up!

The Tobacco History of… St. Louis?

The hidden history of tobacco in St. Louis

Yes, St. Louis was founded on more then beer. At one time St. Louis was the world’s largest chew tobacco supplier! Why is this history hidden? Being a non smoker, I had no idea the midwest held this distinction. I thought tobacco was a southern crop. If you know where to look, you can see there are signs of the once great tobacco mecca.

The Star Tobacco ghost sign, just down the street across from Liggett and Myers complex. The sign under it is for a local department store, no longer in business, Famous Barr.

Star Tobacco

John Edmund Liggett was born in St. Louis in 1826, but lets go back even further in time. J. E. Liggett’s grandfather, Christopher Foulks, owned a snuff mill in New Jersey. Along comes the War of 1812, and his mill is destroyed. So in 1822 Christopher decides to leave Jersey for the open spaces of the mid-west to IL to open a new snuff mill. Then 10 years later, he moved to St. Louis, MO. and opened the Foulks and Shaw company, only to be changed to Hiram Shaw and Co. when Christoper died. Shaw brought on J.E. Liggett, who worked for his grandfather, as a partner. It was then called JE Liggett and Bro before becoming Liggett and Myers. But lets not get ahead of our story.

The Liggett and Myers Tobacco Company complex it St. Louis, MO, in its heyday with 13 buildings.

A brief History

Way back before St. Louis was a city, and the French controlled the territory (Blog on French histroy in STL soon), growth occurred after the Louisiana Purchase and Lewis and Clark’s exposition. The area became one of the largest port cities for shipping along the Mississippi river.

The tobacco history seen on smoke stack from the plant still visible with the popular brand.

Here is a very short timeline of tobacco:

~1492 Columbus notes tobacco use in ‘new land’ ~by 1558 it was wildly popular in Europe ~1600 tobacco is used as a monetary standard ~1624 the Pope bans tobacco use in holy places calling it “too close to pleasures” ~1730 first tobacco crops are grown in Virginia ~1794 tax on tobacco ~1847 hand rolled cigarettes are sold in Great Britten ~1849 Liggett and Myers is producing tobacco under this name

Advertisement for Star Plug chew in the Missouri of To-day Progress and Process booklet

~1880 Rolled Cigarette machine is invented ~1890 the American Trust Company buys up lots of companies

Just west of St. Louis, in Defiance, MO and further west, large farms and crop plantations could expand as needed. Hemp was also a large crop, but by 1890 the largest cash crop was tobacco. It grew in the Mo river towns in great number, leading to Liggett & Myers becoming the largest in the world. St. Louis was one of the first in the country to sell rolled cigarettes in 1849 by Liggett and Brother. Chew and plug tobacco was still very popular.

Covering several city blocks, the Star Tobacco brand was one of the most popular.

Plug Tobacco

Plug tobacco was made by hollowing out the center of a maple or hickory log and mixing the tobacco with honey, apple brandy or other flavors and putting it back in the log and plugged and left to dry out. After the drying process, the log would be opened and the cured tobacco would be ready. Through the years different flavors and spices were added after production was industrialized. Plug was the most popular form of tobacco and St. Louis produced about 40% of the nation’s sales until World War one, when the army issued cigarettes to soldiers and chew became less and less popular. The decline was due to manufactures in St. Louis not leaning into the changing tastes and continuing to sell primarily chew and cigars.

Liggett & Myers

Terra cotta Stars on the corners of the buildings

In 1873 George Myers bought into Liggett and Bros and was incorporated in 1878. By the 1890’s they were producing cigarettes. Covering several city blocks and 13 buildings, the Liggett and Myers tobacco company had several large brick buildings in the complex and even had housing for employees around what is now the Botanical Heights/Tiffany neighborhood (Both Tiffany and Liggett & Myers Districts are now on the National Register of Historic Places).

Liggett and Myers was part of the trust and rebranded in 1911 after dissolution. After WWII, some of the buildings were sold at the St. Louis plant. They expanded in 1964 to include pet foods and wine and spirits. In 1980 they were acquired by a British based company and sold to Philip Morris in 1999. When John Edmund Liggett died, he was one of the riches men in the city and is buried at Bellefontaine Cemetery.

Photo by Joyce Payne~ An RJ Reynolds Co product

Competition

Other tobacco companies in St. Louis were Wellman and Dwire Manufactures (down the street), makers of smoking and chew tobacco. J.N Wellman was from Missouri and William T. Dwire from Quincy, IL.

The history of tobacco is alive and well in St. Louis with this ghost sign. Building still in use as multi use.
Tobacco advertising
Colorful advertising

Drummond Tobacco Co. from 1873 to 1898. James T. Drummond, born in St. Louis, went into the business as a bookkeeper for Meyers Tobacco in 1862. He was mayor of Alton , IL in 1868- 1871. He died in 1897, one year before being bought by the American Trust Company for ten million dollars. He is buried in Alton Cemetery.

The Drummond Tobacco Co.

Christian Peper Tobacco started in 1852, and had a warehouse built in 1874 on the site of the Old Missouri Hotel on First Street, by the river front. The warehouse live on today in two parts, The Peper Lofts and as offices and The Old Spaghetti Factory.

As advertised in ‘Missouri To-day’ 1893

The John Weisert “Big John” Tobacco Co. on French Market and LaSalle St. in St. Louis. The Weisert Co was one of the few to not only survive the Trust co, but thrive and continue becoming the last to produce tobacco in the city until 1989. They did so by providing many different brands and flavors. At one time over 100 brands. By the time they closed, the grand son of the founder was working alone adding flavors to cigars himself. Thus ending the St. Louis Tobacco legacy.

Big John tobacco on 6th street
Fire Map of St Louis showing John Weisert Tobacco CO

A few more companies and advertisements:

1840-1898

Leave a comment if you learned something new or knew of these companies.

Signs of the past, ghost signs and buildings

Part 2

The signs are all around us. The ghost buildings that once held businesses, homes and even churches still sit, beckoning those passing by to stop and take a look. To look past the rubble and broken glass, tall grass and graffitti to the past life it held.

Photo of the shell of what is left of the St. Louis Southwestern
RY Freight Depot. As I was about to take this photo, a train passed by. Years ago this would be an all day occurrence.

I recently drove around the northern part of the city of St. Louis, MO just north of the Gateway Arch grounds where the history is rich with ghost signs and buildings on every corner. This area was spared from the wrecking ball that demolished 37 blocks to make way for said Arch. Now I am a St. Louisan through and through and love the city and am proud of the arch, but as a historian and preservationist, it saddens me that so much history was lost because of it. Not to mention the people that were displaced by it~but that is a blog unto itself(I will link it here, when it is posted).

Multiple ghost signs on this building originally for the Mound City Buggy Company

The signs show us what it was like and how far we have come. In one sign, we see The Mound City Buggy Co all the way up to auto transmissions!

What can we learn from the signs and buildings? How we have evolved. How we lived once or made due with what was available at the time.

Power to the people (of St. Louis)

The Laclede Power Co on the Mississippi River front, St. Louis, MO
Front sign of the Laclede Power Co
The Laceled building is just a shell left to the elements and urban decay. Note the rainbow, no rain in sight!

The Laclede Power Company began in 1891 and this building, built in 1901 was a power generating facility. The building has sat empty since the 1970’s.

Another Power company building and sign is the Union Electric Light and Power Company.

The Union Electric Light and Power co. on Ashley street, St. Louis, MO

This great ornate building was built in 1902( some say 1889). It provided steam heat to the downtown area. It was then converted to oil in the early 70’s and to natural gas in 1996. There was a greenway walking/riding trail area built around here, but recently it was closed off, along with multiple points of entry to the riverfront. I drove down here and didn’t know what was going on, as ‘the greenway trail’ started and ended here!

Click here to see the first video of ghost signs around STL. More to come and will be updated. Click here for part one blog.

More signs of the past that connect us

A closer image of the “D E trademark” sign. A.F Shapleigh Hardware co.
Wow. This one took a while to figure out and find info! I
do know there were a few businesses that had multiple warehouses around this area. As you can see this is Warehouse #3.
One of seven buildings for the Crunden-Martin MFG Co.

The complex that made up the Crunden-Martin Manufacturing Co. is down to 4 from the seven in its heyday. They were makers of wood and metal household goods, toys and paper products. The buildings were built between 1904 and 1920. They were an early supporter of the flood wall along the Mississippi in St. Louis. It closed in late 1990.

No info on this building or sign. If you can read it,
leave a comment, please! A true sign of the past!

The big one, building, ghost sign and oldest business!

Of course, the Gateway Arch would not be built for another 60+ years when this building was built.

The A. F. Shapleigh Hardware Company began when Augustus Frederick Shapleigh came to St. Louis from Philadelphia in 1843 to open a branch of the Rodgers Brothers and company firm. The name changed to Shapleigh Hardware not long after and continued to grow very quickly. The picture with the DE trademark is from the Shapleigh Hardware co. “The Diamond Edge is a quality pledge” Click here for detailed history from family descendants.

The other sign visible on this one is harder to read, J. Kennard and sons Carpet Co. Building possibly built in 1901.
This one really upsets me that it wasn’t repurposed.
Left to the urban elements. It is on the National Register of Historic Places.

More ghost signs

The only thing I can make out is ‘Transfers & Forwarding Co.
Not sure what the bottom row says. St. Louis was a port city
handling lots of freight, so this makes sense.
? Corbitt Iron Co., Shelter Top Co.
Back side of cold storage building. Built in 1908
Front side of the St. Louis Refrigeration & Cold Storage Co. There was once several blocks of these.
The other side of Beck and Corbitt Iron Co.
Circa 1903

If you know of any ghost signs I missed or where any unusual ones are located, drop a comment. These were all from the Near Northside St. Louis City. There are more and I intend to go back! Stay tuned for part 3!